Wider reading
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Module L83165
GEOGRAPHIES OF FASHION AND FOOD
This module aims to explore the economic geographies of fashion and food – two of the most global and yet most intimate and personal commodities. It explores the two sectors from a variety of scales and examines the contested conceptual bases of work on commodity chains, ethical systems of provision, retailing and exchange. The module examines the geographies of production, employment, commodity movement, retailing, governance and regulation and consumption of both fashion and food. We will be critically questioning who makes our food and clothes, where, how, why and under what conditions? Throughout we expect students to reflect critically on a range of geographical and other relevant literatures and to understand a variety of approaches to the topics.
Lecturers: Prof. Louise Crewe; Dr. Carol Morris; Dr Rob Hearn; Mr Kieran Phelan
Time and Place - Semester one:
Lectures -
Seminars (weeks beginning 30th October and 20th November and 5th March / University weeks 5, 7 and 16):
Note: you are expected to attend ONE two hour seminar in each of these weeks; the first seminar is designed to support your work for the timed essay at the end of term.
Assessment:
- One hour timed, seen essay in the final session of the autumn semester i.e. in December 2017 (30%).
- Two hour examination at the end of the spring semester (70%).
Session details:
PART 1. THINKING GEOGRAPHICALLY ABOUT FASHION & FOOD
1. Introduction & what is in your basket of goods? (CM/LC) (w/b 2nd October)
2. Framing the study of fashion of food: space, scale & commodity journeys (LC) (w/b 9th October)
3. The body, food & fashion (LC) (w/b 16th October)
4. Who eats, who governs food? Food subjectivities & institutions (CM) (w/b 23rd October)
5. SEMINAR 1: The body, food & fashion (KP, LC, CM) (w/b 30th October)
FIELDWORK WEEK (w/b 6th November)
PART 2: ‘BIG’ FASHION & FOOD
6. Big food (CM) (w/b 13th November)
7. Film screening Food Inc. AND SEMINAR 2: big food (CM & KP) (w/b 20th November)
8. Big fashion: corporate power in a concentrated system (LC) (w/b 27th November)
9. Film screening of The True Cost (KP) (w/b 4th December)
10. TIMED ESSAY IN-CLASS (w/b 11th December)
PART 3: PLACE, PROVENANCE & TIME
11. Branding, luxury & flagship stores(LC) (w/b 29th Jan)
12. Slow fashion (KP) (w/b 5th Feb)
13. Place, provenance and the alternative food sector (CM w/b 12th Feb)
14. Slow food (RH) (w/b 19th Feb)
15. Digital disruption (LC) (w/b 26th Feb)
16. SEMINAR 3: Place, provenance and the alternative food sector (CM/KP) (w/b 5th March)
PART 4: CONTENTIOUS COMMODITIES
17. Meatification (CM) (w/b 12th March)
18. Made by, Made of: Bio-commodification, hidden production and exploitation in fashion’s supply chains (LC) (w/b 19th March)
EASTER BREAK - Term ends w/b 19th March
19. The new politics of milk (CM) (w/b 23rd April)
20. Revision class (LC/CM) (w/b 30th April)
Reading lists
The readings will be organised according to specific lectures. There is one core textbook for the fashion-focused elements of the module:
Crewe, L. (2017) The Geographies of Fashion London, Bloomsbury.
You are not expected to read every source associated with each lecture although we will point out key readings during the class and strongly advise you to read those. There are ‘core’ or ‘essential’ readings for each lecture, so start with these sources which can be accessed via the electronic reading list service provided by the library. The remaining ‘wider’ readings, provided at the end of this module guide, can be explored as time and interest allow with the starred readings being particularly useful. Difficult to access or heavily in demand items will be available electronically via the copyright scanning facility provided by the library. Many of the items are in short loan so please check in the library before reporting that they are not available. Also note that some older sources may only be available in hard copy in the library so please check the stacks. However, if you continue to experience difficulties accessing materials please email us.
WIDER READING LIST
PART 1. THINKING GEOGRAPHICALLY ABOUT FASHION & FOOD
2. Framing the study of fashion of food: space, scale & commodity journeys (LC) (w/c 9th October)
*Allen, J. (2008) Claiming connections: a distant world of sweatshops. In Barnett, C, Robinson, J and Rose, G. (eds) Geographies of Globalization: Living in a Demanding World London: Sage: 7-54
Barnett, C. Cloke, P. Clarke, N. And Malpass, A. (2011) Globalising Responsibility Oxford: Blackwell
*Beardsworth, A. and Keil, T. (1997) Sociology on the Menu. Routledge: London. In particular Chapter 2 The Making of the Modern Food System.
Castree, N. (2001) Commodity fetishism, geographical imaginations and imaginative geographies. Environment and Planning A, 33, pp.1519-1525.
Cook I (2006) Geographies of food - following. Progress in Human Geography 30, 655-666 (this and the subsequent 2 sources review of some recent food related work in human geography).
Cook I (2008) Geographies of food - mixing. Progress in Human Geography 32, 1-13.
*Cook I (2010) Geographies of food – ‘afters’. Progress in Human Geography 34.
*Crewe L (2003) A thread lost in an endless labyrinth: unravelling fashion’s commodity chains In Hughes and Reimer Geographies of Commodity Chains Routledge
*Crewe, L. (2008) Ugly beautiful: counting the cost of the global fashion industry Geography January
Hale, A. (2000) What hope for ethical trade in the globalised garment industry? Antipode 32(4) 349-356
Hale, A. and Wills, J. (2005) Threads of Labour: garment industry supply chains from the worker’s perspective Oxford: Blackwell
*Hartwick, E. (1998) Geographies of Consumption: a commodity chain approach Society and Space 16 423-437
*Hartwick, E. (2000) Towards a geographical politics of consumption Environment and Planning A 32 1177-1192
Hughes, A. Buttle, M. & Wrigley, N. (2007) Organisational Geographies of corporate responsibility: a UK-US comparison of retailers’ ethical trading initiatives Journal of Economic Geography 7(4) 491-513
*Hughes A and Reimer S (2004) Introduction. In: Hughes A and Reimer S (eds) Geographies of Commodity Chains. Routledge, London, pp.1-16.
Johns, R. and Vural, L. 2000 Class, geography and the consumerist turn: UNITE and the Stop Sweatshops Campaign EPA 23: 1193-1213
McDonagh, J (2014) Rural Geography II: Discourses of food and sustainable rural futures, Progress in Human Geography, 38(6) 838-844.
Skov, L. (2005) The return of the fur coat: A commodity chain perspective Current Sociology 53: 9
Winter, M. Progress in Human Geographyreviews of agro-food geography in 2003, 04 & 05.
Wright, M. (1997) Crossing the factory frontier – gender, power and place in the Mexican maquiladora Antipode 29, 3: 278-302
Wright, M. (1999) The politics of relocation: gender, nationality and value in a Mexican maquiladora EPA 31: 1601-1617
3. The body, food & fashion (LC) (w/b 16th October)
We draw on debates about identity, risk, certitude and postmodernity to reflect on the fashion and food system as a means of distinction and identity formation. We look at fashion as display and use, and at why and how our clothes become meaningful. Following Miller (2006) we explore why clothes eat us, and reflect on the anxieties that getting dressed create. We ask about the foods we ingest – why, and what knowledge underpins this. What does the clean food movement bring to the consumer in terms of choice, constraint, cost and anxiety?
Arnold, R. (1999) Heroin Chic Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture 3.3 279-297
Baker, A. 2000 Serious Shopping London, Free Association Books
Banim, M. and Guy, A. (2001) Discontinued selves: why do women keep clothes they no longer wear? Chapter 12 in Guy, A. et al Through the Wardrobe Oxford: Berg
*Beardsworth, A. & Keil, T. 1997. Sociology on the Menu Chapter 8, Dieting, fat & body image. London Routledge.
Benson, A. (ed) 2000: I shop therefore I am: Compulsive buying and the search for self New York, Aronson
Clay, D. and Bradley Foster, H. (2007) Dress Sense: Emotional and Sensory Experiences of the Body and Clothes Oxford: Berg
Colls, R. 2007 Materialising bodily matter: intra-action and the embodiment of fat Geoforum.
Volume 38, Issue 2, pp.353–365
*Crewe, L. (2008) Ugly beautiful: counting the cost of the global fashion industry Geography January
Chernin, K. (1983) Womansize: The Tyranny of Slenderness London: The Women’s Press.
Hayes-Conroy, A-H. & Hayes-Conroy, J. 2008. Taking back taste: feminism, food and visceral politics. Gender, Place & Culture 15 (5), pp. 461-473.
Corbett, G. 2000 Women, body image and shopping for clothes. Chapter 6 in Baker, A. Serious Shopping 114-132
*Clarke A, Miller D, 2002, “Fashion and anxiety” Fashion Theory 6 191 – 214
*Entwistle, J. (2000) The Fashioned Body Polity
*Entwistle, J. (2000) Fashion and the fleshy body: dress as embodied practice Fashion Theory 4.3
Entwistle, J. (2000) The dressed body as situated practice Fashion Theory Issue 3
*Entwistle, J. (2006) Keeping up appearances: aesthetic labour in the fashion modelling industries of London and New York The Sociological Review 54: 4
Entwistle, J. (2009) The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion Berg, Oxford
*Entwistle, J. and Wilson, E. Body Dressing. Oxford: Berg
Featherstone, M. (1991) The Body in Consumer Culture pp: 170-96 in Featherstone, M. Hepworth, M. And Turner, B. The Body: Social Process and Cultural Theory London: Sage
Guthman, J. 2011. Weighing in: obesity, food justice and the limits of capitalism. University of
California Press: Berkeley.
*Guthman, J. 2012. Opening up the black box of the body in geographical obesity research: toward a critical political ecology of fat. Annals of the Association of American Geographers, 102(5), 951-57.
Guthman, J. and duPuis, M. 2006. Embodying neo-liberalism: economy, culture and the politics of
fat Environment and Planning D: Society and Space 24: 427-448.
Guy, Ali, Green, E. and Banim, M. (2001) Through the Wardrobe: Women's Relationships with their Clothes Oxford: Berg
Karaminas, V. (2012) Body parts in Journal of Fashion Theory 16(2) 133-138
Klep, I. (2011) Slimming Lines Fashion Theory 15(4) 451-480
Mears, A. (2011) Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model University of California Press
Negrin, L. (1999) The self as image - a critical appraisal of postmodern theories of fashion Theory, Culture and Society 16.3 99-120
*Roe, E. 2006. ‘Things becoming: food and the embodied, material practices of an organic food
consumer’. Sociologia Ruralis, 46 (2) 104-21.
Sciermer, B. (2010) Fashion victims: on the individualising and deindividualising powers of fashion Fashion Theory 14(1) 83-104
Salzinger, L. (1997) From high heels to swathed bodies: gendered meanings under production in Mexico’s Export Processing Industry. Feminist Studies 23.3: 549-574
Salzinger, L. (2000) Manufacturing sexual subjects: harassment, desire and discipline on a maquiladora shopfloor Ethnography 1,1: 67-92
*Wilson, B. (2017) Why we fell for clean eating. The Guardian. Friday 11 August.
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/aug/11/why-we-fell-for-clean-eating?
*Winson, A. 2004. Bringing political economy into the debate on the obesity epidemic. Agriculture
and Human Values, 21: 299-312.
Woodward, I. (2006) Investigating consumption anxiety thesis: aesthetic choice, narrativisation and social performance The Sociological Review: 263-282
Woodward, S. (2005) Looking good, feeling right – aesthetics of the self. Chapter 2 in Kuchler, S. and Miller, D. Clothing as Material Culture Oxford: Berg
*Woodward, S (2007) Why women wear what they wear Oxford: Berg
4. Who eats, who governs food? Food subjectivities & institutions (CM) (w/c 23rd October)
This session will examine, in essence, the ‘structure’ and ‘agency’ of food provisioning. It will first explore ‘agency’, the people who ‘act’ within the food system, asking who we are and what are we when we eat i.e. our different eating subjectivities or identities (notably as consumers and citizens) and their geographies. The potential of each subjectivity to influence food system change will also be considered. It will then move on to consider the ‘structures’ of food provisioning by exploring the key organisations and domains involved in governing and regulating our food system. Although this session focuses on food, the basic principles and ideas covered also apply to the fashion system.
Miele, M. (2006). Consumption Culture: The Case of Food. In P. Cloke, T. Marsden and P. Mooney (Eds.), Handbook of Rural Studies (pp. 344-354). London: Sage Publications.
5. SEMINAR 1: The body, food & fashion (KP, LC, CM) (w/c 30th October)
Separate reading list to be provided
FIELDWORK WEEK (w/c 6th November)
PART 2: ‘BIG’ FASHION & FOOD
6. Big food (CM) (w/c 13th November)
This session will look at ‘Big Food’, in the sense that food provisioning systems have become spatially extensive (global in reach) and the businesses involved in food production, distribution and retail have become economically large and powerful which has vastly extended food choice (apparently) and reduced the cost of food to consumers, but simultaneously is associated with a range of questionable consequences for people, animals and the environment. The lecture will adopt a political economic perspective on food provisioning to explore what happens when agriculture and food become permeated by capitalist political-economic and social relations.
Note that many of the readings listed here are also relevant to the session on ‘governing food’, particularly those that address the role of supermarkets and private food standards.
Agriculture and Human Values – 2013 – Special issue of this journal on the changing role of supermarkets in global supply chains.
*Atkins P and Bowler I (2001) Food in society: economy, culture, geography. Hodder Arnold, London. Particularly Chapter 2 Introduction to the Political Economy of Food; Chapter 3: Food regimes as an organizing concept, pp.23-36; Chapter 4: Globalization and food networks, pp.37-55; Chapter 5 Transformation of the farm sector, pp.56-73.
Barrett, H., Ilbery, B., Browne, A., Binns, T. 1999. Globalization and the changing networks of food supply: the importation of fresh horticultural produce from Kenya into the UK. TIBG, 24, 2, 159-174.
Barrett H, Browne A and Ilbery B (2004) From farm to supermarket: the trade in fresh horticultural produce from sub-Saharan Africa to the UK. In: Hughes A and Reimer S (eds) Geographies of Commodity Chains. Routledge, London, pp. 19-38.
*Busch, L. and Bain, C. (2004) New! Improved? The transformation of the global agri-food system. Rural Sociology, 69 (3), pp.321-346.
*Carolan, M. 2011. The real cost of cheap food. Earthscan: Abingdon.
Friedberg, S. (2003) Culture, conventions and colonial constructs of rurality in south-north horticultural trades. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 97-109.
Friedberg, S. (2007) Supermarkets and imperial knowledge. Cultural Geographies, 14 (3), 321-342.
Goodman D and Redclift M (1991) Refashioning nature: food, ecology and culture. Routledge, London (good on the origins and implications of the modern agro-food system. See, for example, chapters 3 and 5)
*Goodman D and Watts M (eds)(1997) Globalising food: agrarian questions and global restructuring. Routledge, London.
This is an excellent, and very varied collection of chapters concerning various aspects of the globalisation of food supply systems, mostly drawing on specific case studies. A little bit dated, but still key reading. Key chapters here include:
- Watts M and Goodman D ‘Agrarian questions: global appetite, local metabolism: nature, culture and industry in fin-de-siécle agro-food systems’ pp.1-34 (this sets up the book’s attempt to summarise the global food supply structure at the end of the 20th Century)
- Page B ‘Restructuring pork production, remaking rural Iowa’ pp.133-157 (on the integration of pigmeat production and processing in the American mid-West through the increasing involvement of large corporate interests)
- Fitzsimmons M ‘Regions in global context? Restructuring, industry and regional dynamics’ pp.158-165
- Marsden T ‘Creating space for food: the distinctiveness of recent agrarian development’ pp.169-191
- Boyd W and Watts M ‘Agro-industrial just-in-time: the chicken industry and post-war American capitalism’ (how the food industry is paralleling trends in other industries, to an extent at least. Shows how value is created at different stages of a food chain)*
Holloway, L. (forthcoming) The Geographies of Food. Chapter 4: What happens to food? Geographies of mobility and transformation. Routledge: London. [Available as pdf on Moodle]
Ioris, A. (2016) The politico-ecological economy of neoliberal agribusiness: displacement, financialisation and mystification. Area, 48 (1), 84-91.
Lang T and Heasman M (2004) Food wars: the global battle for mouths, minds and markets. Earthscan, London. (interesting thesis about 3 competing food supply paradigms, including the dominant ‘productionist’ paradigm, and alternative ‘life sciences’ and ‘ecological’ paradigms. See especially chapters 1 and 4 re. this session)
Lawrence, F. (2004) Not on the label: what really goes into the food on your plates. Penguin: London.
Le Heron, R. and Roche, M. (1995) A ‘fresh’ place for food's space. Area 27, pp. 23–33.
*Morgan K, Marsden T and Murdoch J (2006) Worlds of food: place, power and provenance in the food chain. Oxford University Press, Oxford. Chapter 3: Geographies of agri-food, pp.53-88.
Naylor, S. (2000) Spacing the can: empire, modernity and the globalisation of food. Environment and Planning A, 32, pp.1625-1639. [A readable account of how the development of one technology – canning – was crucial to the development of global food systems]
Northcutt, W. (2003) Jose Bove vs. McDonalds: the making of a national hero in the French anti-globalization movement. Proceedings of the Western Society for French History, 31, pp.326-345. [available online]
*Pechlaner, G. and Otero, G. (2008) The third food regime: neo-liberal globalism and agricultural biotechnology in North America. Sociologia Ruralis, 48 (4), 352-371.
*Schlosser, E. (2001) Fast food nation: the dark side of the all-American meal. Houghton Mifflin: Boston, New York. [There is also a film of this book]
Striffler, S. (2005) Chicken. Yale University Press: New Haven.
Watts, M. (1999) Commodities. Chapter 32 in Cloke, P. et al. (eds) Introducing Human Geographies. London: Arnold.
Watts, M. (2004) Are hogs like chickens? Enclosure and mechanisation in two ‘white meat’ filieres. In: Hughes A and Reimer S (eds) Geographies of Commodity Chains. Routledge, London, pp. 39-62.
Useful background entries in the Dictionary of Human Geography (eds. Johnston et al) include: agrarian question; agricultural geography; agribusiness; agro-food system; food, geographies of food and foodways.
The media on big food:
The print news media often reports big food’s misdemeanors, a couple of recent examples of which are listed below. Note I’m too much of a dinosaur to recommend social media but I’m sufficiently aware of the fact that there is much information of likely relevance about big food therein!
McDonalds wants us to size up its ‘food journey’
Supermarket price promotions targeting less healthy food, survey finds
In contrast to the critical analysis provided by these Guardian articles, BBC2 has been screening a series (initially in July-August 2016 and then a second series in 2017) that celebrates big food with gusto and is entitled Inside the Factory, hosted by MasterChef presenter Greg Wallace. The programme has followed the making of crisps, cornflakes and sweets, amongst other foods, and is available via Box of Broadcasts. Although largely uncritical (a stance that no doubt enabled the BBC to gain access to the factories featured) the programmes provide a detailed and astonishing insight into the industrialisation of our most familiar foods.
7. Film screening ‘Food Inc.’ AND SEMINAR 2: big food (CM & KP) (w/c 20th November)
This is a film about ‘Big food’ and although it is presented from an American perspective many of the issues pertain to British and other European contexts. It illustrates usefully many of the key themes raised in the previous lecture.
The associated seminar will discuss selected readings about ‘big food’ which will help you develop further understanding of processes of globalization and industrialization in the food system. You are expected to read and take notes on the following journal articles before the session and be prepared to talk about your responses to the readings in class.
Compulsory readings for the seminar
Freidberg, S. (2003) Cleaning up down South: Supermarkets, ethical trade and African horticulture. Social & Cultural Geography, 4:1, 27-43.
Guthman, J. (2007) Commentary on teaching food: Why I am fed up with Michael Pollan et al. Agriculture and Human Values 24:261–264.
Sage, C. (2012) Environment and Food. Chapter 2: The global agri-food system. Routledge, Abingdon. pp.14-66. [Available as an e-book]
8. Big fashion: corporate power in a concentrated system (LC) (w/c 27th November)
This session will look at ‘Big Fashion’, in the sense that the fashion business has become spatially extensive (global in reach), and controlled by a relatively small number of very large, powerful global players. This has reduced the price of clothes for the consumer but has brought a suite of problematic consequences for workers and the environment. This lecture looks in particular at the ‘fast fashion’ model of big fashion.
General Fashion Industry
Below are two videos that discuss fashion media and space.
Alexa Chung Uncovers Fashion Industry Secrets | Full Series One | Future of Fashion | British Vogue (27th October, 2015) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi2nc_xxnvs
The Future of Fashion with Alexa Chung in New York | Full Series Two | British Vogue (12th April, 2016) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u0KzfgVn1I
Big fast fashion
BBC (2008) Primark on the rack available at http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00cf06z
*Bain, M. (2016) Zara is an unstoppable sales machine Business of Fashion
Bhardwaj, V. and Fairhurst, A. Fast Fashion: responses to changes in the fashion industry International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research 20(1) 165-73
*Crewe, L (2017) Fast fashion and biocommodifcation. Chapter 3 in Geographies of Fashion, Bloomsbury
Evans, C. (2003) Fashion at the Edge Yale: London and New York
*Goodrum, A. (2005) The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness and Globalization Oxford: Berg
*Ghemawat, P. and Nueno, J. (2003) “Zara: Fast Fashion’. Harvard Business Review, April, Harvard Business Press, Oxford: Berg.
*Klein, N. (2000) No Logo HarperCollins, London
McIntyre, R. & Ramstad, Y. (2004) Not only Nike’s doing it: sweating and the contemporary labour market’ Chapter 26 in Welters & Lillethun, (2005) The Fashion Reader, Berg
*Siegle, L. (2011) To Die for: Is fashion wearing out the world? Fourth Estate: London
*Tokatli N. (2007) Networks, firms and upgrading within the blue-jeans industry: evidence from Turkey Global Networks 7: (1) 51-68
*Tokatli, N. and Ö. Kızılgün (2004) Upgrading in the global clothing industry: Mavi Jeans and the transformation of a Turkish firm from full-package to brand name manufacturing and retailing, Economic Geography, 80, 221–40.
*Tokatli, N. (2008) Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry. The case of Zara Journal of Economic Geography, 8 21-38
*Tokatli, N. (2011)Creative individuals, creative places: Marc Jacobs, New York and Paris International Journal of Urban and Regional Research 35.6, 1256-71
*Tungate, M. (2005) Fashion Brands: Branding style from Armani to Zara London: Kogan Page
*Ross, A. (1997) No Sweat: Fashion, Free Trade & the Rights of Garment Workers London, Verso
Wright, M. (1997) Crossing the factory frontier – gender, power and place in the Mexican maquiladora Antipode 29, 3: 278-302
Wright, M. (1999) The politics of relocation: gender, nationality and value in a Mexican maquiladora EPA 31: 1601-1617
9. Film screening of The True Cost (KP) (w/c 4th December)
10. TIMED ESSAY IN-CLASS (w/c 11th December)
PART 3: PLACE, PROVENANCE & TIME
11. Branding, luxury & flagship stores (LC) (w/c 29th Jan)
This lecture explores how British fashion retailers create specific ‘British’ brand identities in an ever increasing globalised through their stores and products. It looks at the role of world cities, flagship stores, logos and place-based associations to create brands.
*Arvidsson, A (2005) Brands: A Critical Perspective. Journal of Consumer Culture. 5(2) 235-258
*Arvidsson, A. (2006) Brands: Meaning and Value in Media Culture London: Routledge
Aspers, P. (2010) Orderly Fashion Princeton University Press
Butler, S. (2013), ‘Chinese demand for luxury goods boosts Kering’, The Guardian, 25th July.
Capgemini (2013), World Wealth Report, Capgemini, London.
Cervellon, M. C., and Coudriet, R. (2013), ‘Brand social power in luxury retail: Manifestations of brand dominance over clients in the store’, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 41 (11/12), 4-4.
*Crewe, L. (2010), ‘Wear:where. The convergent geographies of fashion and architecture’, Environment and Planning A, 42, 2093-2108.
*Crewe, L. (2017) Luxury: Flagships, singularity and the art of value creation. Chapter 5 in Geographies of Fashion
*Crewe, L., & Martin-Woodhead, A. (2016). Looking at Luxury: consuming luxury fashion in global cities. In I. Hay, & J. V. Beaverstock (Eds.), Handbook on Wealth and the Super-Rich (pp. 322-338). Cheltenham, UK: Edward Elgar.
Curtis, E. and Watson, H. (2007), Fashion Retail, Wiley, Chichester.
Dion, D. and Arnould, E. (2011), ‘Retail luxury strategy: Assembling Charisma through Art and Magic’, Journal of Retailing, 87 (4), 502-520.
Doherty, C. and Moore, A. (2007), The international flagship stores of luxury fashion retailers, Butterworth Heinemann, Oxford.
Fernie, J., Moore, C., Lawrie, A., and Hallsworth, A. (1997). ‘The internationalization of the high fashion brand: the case of central London’, Journal of Product & Brand Management, 6 (3), 151-162.
Fionda, A. M., and Moore, C. M. (2009), ‘The anatomy of the luxury fashion brand’, Journal of Brand Management, 16 (5), 347-363.
Goodrum, A. The National Fabric
Jackson, T. (2004), ‘A contemporary analysis of global luxury brands’, in Bruce, M., Moore, C.and Birtwistle, G. (eds), International Retail Marketing: A Case Study Approach, Elsevier Butterworth Heinemann, Oxford, pp. 155-169.
Jackson, T. (2008), ‘Virtual flagships’, in Kent, T. and Brown, R. (eds), Flagship Marketing, Routledge, London.
Kapferer, J. (2012), ‘Abundant rarity: The key to luxury growth’, Business Horizons 55, 453-462.
Kiessling, G., Balekjian, C., and Oehmichen, A. (2009), ‘What credit crunch. More luxury for new money: European rising stars & established markets’, Journal of Retail & Leisure Property, 8 (1), 3-23.
Koolhaus, R. (2002) Projects for Prada Prada Fondazione
Kozinets, R.V., Sherry, J.F., DeBerry-Spence, B., Duhachek, A., Nuttavuthisit, K. and Storm, D. (2002), ‘Themed flagship brand stores in the new millenium’, Journal of Retailing, 78, 17-29.
Ledbury Research and Walpole (2013), The UK Luxury Benchmark Report, Ledbury Research, London.
Li, G. and Kambele, Z. (2012), ‘Luxury fashion brand consumers in China: perceived value, fashion lifestyle, and willingness to pay’, Journal of Business Research, 65 (10), 1516-1522.
McKinsey and Co. (2013), Understanding China’s Growing Love for Luxury, McKinsey, London.
Moore, C. M. and Birtwistle, G. (2004), ‘The Burberry business model: creating an international luxury fashion brand’, International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 32(8), 412-422.
Moore, C.M. and Docherty, A. (2007), ‘The international flagship store of luxury fashion retailers’, in Hines, T. and Bruce, M. (eds), Fashion Marketing: Contemporary Issues, Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, pp. 277-296.
Moore, C.M., Doherty, A.M. and Doyle, S.A. (2010), ‘Flagship stores as a market entry method: the perspective of luxury fashion retailing’, European Journal of Marketing, 44 (1/2), 139-61.
Moore, C.M., Fernie, J. and Burt, S. (2000), ‘Brands without boundaries: the internationalisation of the designer retailer’s brand’, European Journal of Marketing, 34 (8), 919-37.
Nobbs, K., Moore, C. M., and Sheridan, M. (2012), ‘The flagship format within the luxury fashion market’. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 40 (12), 920-934.
Okonkwo, U. (2009), ‘Sustaining the luxury brand on the internet’, Journal of Brand Management, 6 (5), 302-11.
Passariello, C. and Dodes, R. (2007), ‘Art in fashion: luxury boutiques dress up as galleries’, Wall Street Journal, February 16, p. 8.
Pereira, M., Azevedo, S., Bernardo, V., Moreira Da Sila, F., Miguel, R., and Lucas, J., (2010), ‘The Effect of Visual Merchandising on Fashion Stores in Shopping Centres’. Fifth International textile, Clothing and Design Conference – Magic World of Textiles.
Quinn, B. (2002), The Fashion of Architecture, Berg, Oxford.
Roper, S., Caruana, R., Medway, D., and Murphy, P. (2013), ‘Constructing luxury brands: exploring the role of consumer discourse’, European Journal of Marketing, 47 (3/4), 375-400.
Sharman, A. and Robinson, D. (2014), ‘Burberry rises on Chinese sales’. Financial Times, 16th April.
Short, J. R. (2013), ‘Economic Wealth and Political Power in the Second Gilded Age’, in Hay, I. (ed), Geographies Of The Super-Rich, Edward Elgar Publishing Limited, Cheltenham, UK and Northampton, MA, US.
Shukla, P. (2011), ‘Impact of interpersonal influences, brand origin and brand image on luxury purchase intentions: Measuring interfunctional interactions and a cross-national comparison’, Journal of World Business, 46 (2), 242-252.
Shukla, P. (2012), ‘The influence of value perceptions on luxury purchase intentions in developed and emerging markets’, International Marketing Review, 29 (6), 574-596.
Silverstein, M . and Fiske, N. (2003), Trading Up: The New American Luxury, Penguin Group, New York.
Silverstein, M. and Fiske, N. (2003), ‘Luxury for the Masses’, Harvard Business Review, 81 (4), 48-57.
Sternberg, E. (1999), The Economy of Icons: How Business Manufactures Meaning, Praeger, Westport.
*Tokatli, N., (2012) Old firms, new tricks and the quest for profits: Burberry’s journey from success to failure and back to success again. Journal of Economic Geography. Volume 12, Issue 1, 1 January 2012, Pages 55–77
*Tokatli, N. (2012). Doing a Gucci: the transformation of an Italian fashion firm into a global powerhouse in a ‘Los Angeles-izing’world. Journal of Economic Geography, 13(2), 239-255.
Tokatli, N. (2013), ‘Doing a Gucci: the transformation of an Italian fashion firm into a global powerhouse in a ‘Los Angeles-izing’world’, Journal of Economic Geography, 13 (2), 239-255.
Tynan, C., McKechnie, S., and Chhuon, C. (2010), ‘Co-creating value for luxury brands’, Journal of Business Research, 63 (11), 1156-1163.
Zhan, L., and He, Y. (2012), ‘Understanding luxury consumption in China: Consumer perceptions of best-known brands’, Journal of Business Research, 65 (10), 1452-1460.
Zhang, B., and Kim, J. H. (2013), ‘Luxury fashion consumption in China: Factors affecting attitude and purchase intent’, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20 (1), 68-79.
12. Slow fashion (KP) (w/c 5th Feb)
Clark, H. (2008). SLOW+ FASHION—an Oxymoron—or a Promise for the Future…?. Fashion Theory, 12(4), 427-446.
Gonzalez, N. (2015, January 5). Why is Slow Fashion So Slow to Catch On? Retrieved from TriplePundit: People, Planet, Profit: http://www.triplepundit.com/special/sustainable-fashion-2014/slow-fashion-slow-catch/
Johansson, E. (2010). Slow fashion-the answer for a sustainable fashion industry? Available At: http://bada.hb.se/bitstream/2320/6776/1/2010.9.15.pdf
Jung, Sojin, and Byoungho Jin. "From quantity to quality: understanding slow fashion consumers for sustainability and consumer education." International Journal of Consumer Studies 40.4 (2016): 410-421.
Langdown, A. (2014). Slow fashion as an alternative to mass production: A fashion practitioner's journey. Social Business, 4(1), 33-43.
Leslie, D., Brydges, T., and Brail, S. (2015) Qualifying Aesthetic Value in the Experience Economy: The role of independent fashion boutiques in curating slow fashion. In (eds) Lorentzen, A, Larsen, K. T,. Schroder, L,. (2015). Spatial Dynamics in the Experience Economy, Abingdon, Routledge.
McNeill, L., & Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39(3), 212-222.
Minney, S. (2016). Slow Fashion: Aesthetics Meets Ethics. Oxford: New Internationalist.
Parkins, W., & Craig, G. (2006). Slow Living. Oxford: Berg. (Esp Chapter 1: Slow Living in the Global Everyday, Chapter 3: Time and Speed, and Chapter 4: Space and Place).
Rodale, M. (2016, Jun 9). From Slow Food to Slow Fashion. Retrieved from The Huffington Post: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/maria-rodale/from-slow-food-to-slow-fa_b_7543272.html
Styles, R. (2015, June 8). Sustainable fashion is slow fashion - because fast comes at a price. Retrieved from The Ecologist : http://www.theecologist.org/blogs_and_comments/Blogs/2886259/sustainable_fashion_is_slow_fashion_because_fast_comes_at_a_price.html
Wood, Z. (2008). “Slow fashion” is a must-have... and not just for this season. The Observer, 3.
Zarley Watson, M., & Yan, R. N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2), 141-159.
‘Slow’ Books in the Popular Press
Honore, C. (2004). In Praise of Slowness: How A Worldwide Movement is Challenging the Cult of Speed. San Francisco : Harper Collins.
Honore, C. (2014). The Slow Fix: Lasting Solutions in a Fast-Moving World. London: William Collins.
Powers, W. (2014). New Slow City. Novato: New World Library
Films/Videos
There is great content online that can help you with the material in this course. Please find below suggested online videos that speak to the theme of the lecture;
Slow/Ethical/Green Fashion
Kate Fletcher talking at the Sow to Sew Conference, NSCAD University, 27th September, 2013:
This is a great talk if you are interested in exploring the political underpinnings of Slow Fashion, and the socio-economic framing that is used by Fletcher:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qu8T8rO7d0s
The Slow Revolution (31st October, 2012)
This talk was organized by the RSA, exploring society’s relationship with speed. This is a great talk to explore the relationship between Slow Philosophy, Slow Food and Slow Thinking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyv8eFHbsvk
Finding your Inner Tortoise - The Slow Movement by Carl Honore (13th January, 2017)
A reflection on the Slow Movement by one of the key thinkers of the Slow movement, Carl Honore. – Pay particular attention to the political language that is used within this video- ‘virus’, ‘putting on the brakes’ – as well as assumed relationships between tech (being fast and bad) and slow ritual (yoga, gardening etc) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0DzFkjEMoY
Carl Honore: In praise of slowness (23rd March, 2007)
A seminal talk on ‘slowness’ and ‘slow philosophy’ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhXiHJ8vfuk
TEXTILES - Sustainable Fashion - Kate Fletcher (2nd December, 2016)
Kate Fletcher speaking as part of the ‘Hay Level’ series, introducing her work on ‘sustainable’ fashion and finding her passion for finding a new sustainable futures for the fashion industry. Pay particular attention to her comments on connection, humanity and what is to be human. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYA-dfSsrmU
Eco Fashion Brand is Upcycling Over 100,000 Sweaters Every Year - Slow Fashion
The Exploring Alternatives series takes a look at an ‘eco-fashion’ brand (preloved) run by Julia Grieve. It might be useful when watching this to think through what the implications are, of thinking through ‘Slow Fashion’ in this way? If we do perceive ‘slow fashion’ as being an eco-fashion practice, does it make it marginal? Scalability? Is this desirable? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kd2YPnd7ins
Slow Fashion- The Feed (July 7th, 2016)
A nice video that explores the relationship with our clothes, purchasing, and disposal. It is short (just 7 minutes long) and accessible. Explores these themes within the Australian contexthttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K73h2l6diQ0
Slow Fashion: 'You can wear my shirts for 50 years'
A great video as part of the BBC’s ‘My Shop’ series which looked into alternative shopping practices/concept stores. Have a look at the ‘Slow Fashion’ episode. What type of shopper? What are the impacts on WHO gets to shop (price etc?). http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/business-35122104/slow-fashion-you-can-wear-my-shirts-for-50-years
How to Engage with Ethical Fashion | Clara Vuletich | TEDxSydney (14th June, 2016)
Clara is a designer, researcher, educator and consultant who has worked in the sustainable fashion space in UK and Europe for ten years, and is now based in Sydney, Australia. She was part of the team at the University of the Arts London who designed The TEN, a pioneering sustainable design methodology used by brands including H & M; VF. Corp. and Gucci Group. Clara has recently established a consultancy business that utilises The TEN framework to equip Australian fashion companies with training and insight on sustainable product innovation and strategy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXOd4qh3JKk
Redressing the Fashion Industry: Orsola de Castro at TEDxLondonBusinessSchool 2013 (22nd May, 2013)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mbqwOK9kNM
**Why we need a Fashion Revolution? | Orsola De Castro | TEDxUAL (21st April, 2017) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geLZiTkFzvo
**The Child Labour Experiment- Fashion Revolution (31st March, 2016)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gA97UjCOUI
**The 2 Euro T-Shirt - A Social Experiment- Fashion Revolution (23rd April, 2015)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfANs2y_frk
13. Place, provenance and the alternative food sector (CM w/c12th Feb)
One of the liveliest areas of debate and research in agri-food studies has concerned the emergence of a so-called ‘alternative’ food system, a phenomenon that was given a policy boost in the UK following the 2001 Foot and Mouth outbreak and one in which place / food origins and quality are particularly pronounced concerns and characteristic features. This lecture introduces the topic which is then explored in more detail in the subsequent session which provides a case study of the Slow Food movement. Further opportunity to engage more deeply with this topic will be provided in the 3rd seminar of the module. The length of the associated reading list attests to the volume of scholarly effort devoted to researching place, provenance and the alternative food sector in recent years. As usual, I direct you first to the core readings and then to the starred readings in the wider list, those cited in the lectures and the 3 readings for the seminar.
*Barham, E. (2003) Translating terroir: the global challenge of French AOC labelling. Journal of
Rural Studies, 19 (1), 127-138.
Bowen, S and De Master, K. (2011) New rural livelihoods or museums of production? Quality food
initiatives in practice, Journal of Rural Studies, 27, 73-82.
*Cidell, J. and Alberts, H. (2006) Constructing quality: the multinational histories of chocolate.
Geoforum, 37, 999-1007.
Coombe, R. And Aylwin, N. (2011) Bordering diversity and desire: using intellectual property to mark place-based products. Environment and Planning A 43, 2027-2042.
*DuPuis, M. and David Goodman (2005) 24 (3) Should we go “home” to eat?: toward a reflexive politics of localism. Journal of Rural Studies, 359-371.
Goodman, D., DuPuis, M. and Goodman, M (2011) Alternative Food Networks: Knowledge, Practice and Politics. Routledge: Abingdon. [and see also the set of papers offering commentary on this text published in the International Journal of Sociology of Agriculture and Food, vol 20, no. 3, 383-431]
Hinrichs, C. (2003) The practice and politics of food system localization. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, pp.33-45.
*Ilbery, B. and Kneafsey, M. (1999) Registering Regional Speciality Foodstuffs in the UK: the case
of PDOs and PGIs, Area, 32 (3), pp.317-25.
Holloway,L., Kneafsey, M. (2000) Reading the Space of the Framers 'Market: A Case Study from the United Kingdom. Sociologia Ruralis 40 (3), 285–299. [Scanned copy available in Hallward Library]
Ilbery, B. and Maye, D. (2005) Food supply chains and sustainability: evidence from specialist food producers in the Scottish/English borders, Land Use Policy, 22 (4), pp.331-344
Ilbery, B., Watts, D., Simpson, S., Gilg, A., Little, J. (2006) Mapping local foods: evidence from two English regions. British Food Journal, 108 (3), 213.
Journal of Rural Studies Volume 21, Issue 4, 381-494 (October 2005). Special issue:
Certifying Rural Spaces: Quality-Certified Products and Rural Governance.
Kirwan, J. (2006) The interpersonal world of direct marketing: examining conventions of quality at
UK farmers’ markets. Journal of Rural Studies. 22 (3), 301-312.
Little, R., Maye, D. and Ilbery, B. (2010) Collective purchase: moving local and organic foods beyond the niche market. Environment and Planning A 42 (8) pp. 1797–1813.
Marsden, T. (2005) Ecological entrepreneurship: sustainable development in local communities
through quality food production and local branding. Geoforum, 36, 440-451.
*Moran, W., 1993. The wine appellation as territory in France and California. Annals of the
Association of American Geographers 83, 694–717.
Morgan, K. (2010) Local and green, global and fair: the ethical foodscape and the politics of care. Environment and Planning A, 42, pp. 1852-1867.
*Morgan K, Marsden T and Murdoch J (2006) Worlds of food: place, power and provenance in the food chain. Oxford University Press, Oxford. Chapter 3: Geographies of agri-food, pp.53-88; and
Chapter 4: Localized quality in Tuscany, 89-108.
Morris, C. and Buller, H. (2003) The local food sector: a preliminary assessment of its form and impact in Gloucestershire. British Food Journal, 105 (8), 559-566.
Mount, P. 2002. Growing local food: scale and local food systems governance. Agriculture and Human Values, 29, pp.107-21.
*Murdoch, J., Marsden, T., Banks, J. (2000) Quality, nature and embeddedness: some theoretical
considerations in the context of the food sector. Economic Geography, 76, 107-125.
*Murdoch, J. and Miele, M. (1999) Back to Nature: Changing worlds of production in the food
sector. Sociologia Ruralis, 39 (4), pp.465-83. [Copy available in Short Loan, Hallward Library]
Naylor, L. (2012) Hired gardens and the question of transgression: lawns, food gardens and the business of ‘alternative’ food practice.Cultural Geographies, 19(4) 483–504
New Economics Foundation (2001) Cusgarne Organics: Local Money Flows. Plugging the Leaks Report. NEF and Countryside Agency, London.
Parasecoli, F. (2010) The gender of Geographical Indications: women, place and the marketing of
identities. Cultural Studies – Critical Methodologies 10 (6), 467-478.
Renard, M.C. (2003) Fair trade: quality, market and conventions. Journal of Rural Studies, 19 (1),
87-96,
*Renting, H., T. Marsden and J. Banks (2003) Understanding alternative food networks: exploring the role of short food supply chains in rural development. Environment and Planning A 35 pp. 393-411
Ricketts-Hein, J., Ilbery, B. and Kneafsey, M. (2006) Distribution of local food activity in England and Wales: an index of food relocalisation. Regional Studies, 40 (3), 289-301.
Slocum, R. (2008) Whiteness, space and alternative food practice. Geoforum, 38, 520-33.
*Sonnino, R. and Marsden, T. (2006) Beyond the divide: rethinking relationships between alternative and conventional food networks in Europe. Journal of Economic Geography, 6, 181-199.
Starr, A. (2010) Local food: A social movement? Cultural Studies – Critical Methodologies 10 (6), 479-490.
Trabalzi F. (2007) Crossing conventions in localized food networks: insights from southern Italy Environment and Planning A 39(2) 283–300.
*Tregear, A., Arfini, F., Belletti, G., Marescotti, A. (2007) Regional foods and rural development:
The role of product qualification. Journal of Rural Studies, 23 (1),12-22.
Tregear A. (2011) Progressing knowledge in alternative and local food networks: critical reflections and a research agenda, Journal of Rural Studies, 27(4), pp. 419–430.
*Venn, L. et al. (2006) Researching European 'alternative' food networks: some methodological considerations. Area, 38 (3), 248-258.
Warner, K.D. (2007) The quality of sustainability: Agroecological partnerships and the geographic
branding of California winegrapes. Journal of Rural Studies, 23 (2), 142-155,
Weatherall, C., Tregear, A. and Allinson, J. (2003) In search of the concerned consumer: UK public perceptions of food, farming and buying local. Journal of Rural Studies, 19 (2), 233-244.
Whatmore, S., Thorne, L., 1997. Nourishing networks: alternative geographies of food. In: Goodman, D., Watts, M. (Eds.), Globalising Food: Agrarian Questions and Global Restructuring. Routledge, London, pp. 287-304.
Wilkinson, J. (2011) From fair trade to responsible soy: social movements and the qualification of
agro-food markets. Environment and Planning A, 43, pp.2012-2026.
Website of FARMA (National Farmers' Retail and Markets Association)
14. Slow food (RH) (w/c 19th Feb)
***Whilst this lecture will focus on the Slow Food Movement, particularly in Italy, a number the ideas discussed in the general and core readings for other lectures in the Place, Provenance and the Alternative Food Sector session are also relevant, very much so in fact! ***
Atkinson, D., Gibbs, D. and Reimer, S. (2007) Quality food, 'authentic' production and rural development in Campania, Rivista Geografica Italiana, 114, (3), 363-396.
Brunori, G., Malandrin, V., and Rossi, A. (2013) Trade-off or convergence? The role of food security in the evolution of food discourse in Italy. Journal of Rural Studies, 29, 19-29.
Chrzan, J. (2015) Slow Food: what, why, and to where? Food, Culture and Society: an International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research, 7(2), 117-132.
Del Casino, V. (2014) Social geography I: food. Progress in Human Geography, 39(6), 800-808.
*Feagan, R. (2007) The place of food: mapping out the ‘local’ in local food systems. Progress in Human Geography, 31(1), 23-42.
Fonte, M. and Cucco, I. (2017) Cooperatives and alternative food networks in Italy: the long road towards a social economy in agriculture. Journal of Rural Studies, 53, 291-302.
Goodman, D. (2003) The quality ‘turn’ and alternative food practices: reflections and agenda. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 1-7.
Goodman, D. (2015) Food geographies I: relational foodscapes and the busy-ness of being more-than-food. Progress in Human Geography, 40(2), 257-266.
*Hayes-Conroy, A. and Martin, D. G. (2010) Mobilising bodies: visceral identification in the Slow Food Movement. Transaction of the British Institute of British Geographers, 35(2), 269-281.
Hayes-Conroy, A. (2010) Feeling Slow Food: visceral fieldwork and empathetic research relations in the alternative food movement. Geoforum, 41(5), 734-742.
Hayes-Conroy, A. and Hayes-Conroy, J. (2010) Visceral difference: variation in feeling (slow) food. Environment and Planning A, 42(12), 2956-2971.
Holloway, L., Cox, R., Venn, L., Kneafsey, M., Dowler, E. and Tuomainen, E. (2006) Managing sustainable farmed landscape through ‘alternative’ food networks: a case study from Italy. The Geographical Journal, 172(3), 639-659.
Lauden, R. (2004) Slow Food: the French Terroir strategy, and culinary modernism. Food, Culture and Society: an International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research,7(2), 133-144.
*Leitch, A. (2003) Slow Food and the politics of pork fat: Italian food and European identity. Ethnos, 65(4), 437-432.
Lotti, A. (2010) The commoditisation of products and taste: Slow Food and the conservation of agrodiversity. Agriculture and Human Values, 27(1), 71-83
*Macdonald, K. I. (2013) The morality of cheese: a paradox of defensive localism in a transnational economy. Geoforum, 22, 93-102.
*Miele, M and Murdoch, J. (2002) The practical aesthetics of traditional cuisines: Slow Food in Tuscany. Sociologia Ruralis, 42(2), 312-328.
O’Neil, K. (2014) Localised food systems – what role does place play? Regional Studies, Regional Science, 1(1), 82-87.
Parkins, W. (2004) Out of time: fast subjects and slow living. Time & Society, 13 (2/3), 363-382.
Pietrykowski, B. (2004) You are what you eat: the social economy of the Slow Food Movement. Review of Social Economy, 62(3), 307-321.
*Reed, M. (2008) Slow Food Revolution: a new culture for eating and living. Journal of Rural Studies, 24(4), 478-479.
*Sassatelli, R. and Davolio, F. (2010) Consumption, pleasure and politics: Slow Food and the politico-aesthetic problematization of food. Journal of Consumer Research, 10(2), 202-232.
Schneider, S. (2008). Good, Clean, Fair: the rhetoric of the Slow Food Movement. College English, 70(4), 384-402.
Sexton, A. E., Hayes-Conroy, A., Sweet, E. L., Miele, M. and Ash, J. (2017). Better than text? Critical reflections on the practices of visceral methodologies in human geography. Geoforum, 82, 200-201.
*Simotti, L. (2012). The ideology of Slow Food. Journal of European Studies, 42(2), 168-189.
*Siniscalchi, V. (2013) Environment, regulation and the moral economy of food in the Slow Food Movement. Journal of Political Economy, 20, 295-305.
Sonnino, R. (2007) The Power of Place: Embeddedness and local food systems in Italy and the UK. Anthropology of Food, S2.
Trabalzi, F. (2007) Crossing Conventions in Localised Food Networks: Insights from Southern Italy. Environment and Planning A, 39, 283-300.
Vecchio, R. (2010) Local food at Italian farmers’ markets: three case studies. The International Journal of Sociology of Agriculture and Food, 17(2), 122-139.
Van Brommel, K. and Spicer, A. (2011) Hail the snail: hegemonic struggles in the Slow Food Movement. Organizational Studies, 32(12), 1717-1744.
Whatmore, S., Stassart, P. and Renting, H. (2003) Guest editorial – what’s alternative about alternative food networks? Environment and Planning A, 35, 389-391.
Winter, M. (2003) Embeddedness the new food economy and defensive localism. Journal of Rural Studies, 19, 23-32.
15. Digital disruption (LC) (w/c 26th Feb)
Beer, D. And Burrows, R. (2010) Consumption, prosumption and participatory web cultures Journal of Consumer Culture 10:3: 3-12
Boston Consulting Group (2010) The Connected Kingdom: How the Internet is Transforming the UK Economy Boston, MA: BCG
Boulter, J. and Grusin, R. (1999) Remediation Cambridge: MIT Press
Crewe, L. (2013) When virtual and material worlds collide: democratic fashion in the internet age Environment and Planning A 45
*Crewe, L. (2017) Software:softwhere. Chapter 7 in course text The Geographies of Fashion.
Evans, P. And Wurster, T. (2000) Blown To Bits: How the New Economics of Information Transforms Strategy Boston: Harvard Business School Press
Featherstone, M. (2009) Ubiquitous Media: An Introduction Theory, Culture and Society 26: 1-22
Herring, S. (2004) Slouching towards the ordinary: current trends in computer-mediated communication New Media and Society 6(1)26-36
*Jenkins, H. (2006) Convergence: where old and new media collide Cambridge, MA: MIT Press
*Kitchin, R. (1998) Towards geographies of cyberspace Progress in Human Geography 22(3) 385-406
Leinbach, T. and Brunn, S. (2001) Worlds of E-Commerce: Economic, Geographical and Social Dimensions Chichester, John Wiley
*Licoppe, C. (2004) Connected presence: the emergence of a new repertoire for managed social relationships in a changing communication technoscape Environment and Planning D: Society and Space 22: 135-156
Liebowitz, S. (2002) Re-thinking the network economy: the true forces that drive the Digital Marketplace, New York, AMACOM
Neff, G. and Stark, D. (2002) Permanently beta: responsive organisation in an internet era Centre on Organizational Innovation Working Paper, Columbia University
*Negroponte, N. (1995) Being Digital New York: Vintage Books
Porter, M. (2001) Strategy and the internet Harvard Business Review, March: 63-78
*Prahalad, C. & Ramaswamy, V. (2004) The Future of Competition: Co-creating Unique Value with Customers, MA: Harvard Business School Press
Quinn, B. (2012) Fashion Futures Merrell, London
Ritzer, G. And Jurgenson, N. (2010) Production, consumption and prosumption: The nature of capitalism in the age of the digital ‘prosumer’ Journal of Consumer Culture 10: 13-36
*Rocamora, A. (2012) Personal Fashion Blogs: screens and mirrors in digital self-portraits Fashion Theory (15.4) 407-424
Shapiro, C. and Varian, H. (1999) Information Rules: A Strategic Guide to the Network Economy, Harvard: Harvard Business School Press
Shields, R. (2003) The Virtual London: Routledge
Tapscott, D. And McQueen, R. (1995) The Digital Economy New York, McGraw-Hill
Tapscott, D. And Williams, A. (1996) Wikinomics: How mass collaboration changes everything New York: Portfolio
Thrift, N. (1996) New urban eras and old technological fears: reconfiguring the goodwill of electronic things Urban Studies 33: 1463-1493
Thrift, N. (2005) Knowing Capitalism London: Sage
Turkle, S. (1995) Life on the Screen: Identity in the age of the internet Simon and Schuster: London
Turkle, S. (2011) Alone Together New York: Basic Books
Van Dijk, J. (2009) Users like you? Theorizing agency in user-generated content Media, Culture and Society 31(3) 41-58
Zook, M. (2000) The web of production: the economic geography of commercial internet content production in the United States Environment and Planning A 32: 411-426
16. SEMINAR 3: Place, provenance and the alternative food sector (CM/KP) (w/c 5th March)
This seminar will focus on some of the critical scholarship of alternative food systems. It will be organised around discussion of the following journal articles which you will be expected to read and take notes on before the session and be prepared to talk about your responses to the readings in class.
Compulsory readings for the seminar
Born, B. and Purcell, M. (2006) Avoiding the local trap: scale and food systems in planning research. Journal of Planning Education and Research, 26, pp.195-207.
Galt, R., Bradley, K., Christensen, L., Van Soelen Kim, J. and Lobo, R. (2015) Eroding the Community in Community Supported Agriculture (CSA): Competition’s Effects in
Alternative Food Networks in California. Sociologia Ruralis. DOI: 10.1111/soru.12102
Rippon, M. (2014) What is the geography of Geographical Indications? Place, production methods and protected food names. Area 46 (2), 154-162.
PART 4: CONTENTIOUS COMMODITIES
17. Meatification (CM) (w/c 12th March)
This session will explore the ‘meatification’ of modern ‘western’ diets i.e. the excessive consumption of meat and other animal products. It is predicted that as development proceeds in countries in the global South increasing amounts of animal proteins will be consumed within the context of a ‘livestock revolution’. However, the adverse environmental, animal and social implications of such dietary shifts have become the subject of critique, from scientists (of different disciplines e.g. nutrition ecologists, medics) and social scientists, long-standing food movements such as vegetarianism and veganism and more recently from newly constituted organisations concerned about climate change and food security.
Atkins, P. and Bowler, I. (2001) Food in Society. Arnold: London. Chapter 18: Food ethics, food policies and civil society – contains some basic information about eating and not eating animal products.
Beardsworth, A. and Bryman, A. (1999) Meat consumption and vegetarianism among young adults in the UK. British Food Journal, 101 (4), 289-300
Beardsworth, A. and Keil, T. (1992) The vegetarian option: varieties, conversions, motives and careers. The Sociological Review 40 (2) pp. 253-293.
*Beardsworth, A. and Keil, T. (1997) Sociology on the menu: an invitation to the study of food and society. Routledge, London. Chapter 9: The mysterious meanings of neat and Chapter 10: The vegetarian option.
Buller, H. and Morris, C. (2008) Beasts of a different burden: agricultural sustainability and farm animals. Chapter in Seymour, S., Fish, R., Watkins, C. and Steven, M. (eds) Transdisciplinary Perspectives – chapter on Sustainable Farmland Management. CABI, Wallingford.
CIWF (Compassion in World Farming Trust) (2004) The global benefits of eating less meat. A report
prepared for CIWF Trust, Petersfield, Hampshire GU32 3EH, UK. Compiled and written by Mark
Gold. [Available on-line from CIWF].
China’s new dietary guidelines to reduce meat consumption:
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2016/jun/20/chinas-meat-consumption-climate-change
Davis, S. L. (2003). The least harm principle may require that humans consume a diet containing large herbivores, not a vegan diet. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics 16, 387-394.
*Evans, A. and Miele, M. (2012) Between food and flesh: how animals are made to matter (and not matter) within food consumption practices. Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 30, 298-314.
*Emel, J. and Neo, H. (2015) Political ecologies of meat. Routledge: New York and London. [Available as Ebook]
Fiddes, N. (1991) Meat: A Natural Symbol. Routledge, London. [This is a detailed anthropological analysis of meat eating. A good read but not for the faint hearted!]
Fiddes, N. (1997) Declining meat: past, present…and future imperfect? Chapter 13 in P. Caplan (ed.) Food, Health and Identity. Routledge: London.
Food Ethics Council (2001) Farming animals for food: towards a moral menu. Report by the Food Ethics Council, London. Available on-line from the Food Ethics Council: www.foodethicscouncil.org.uk
Fourat, E and Lepiller, O. 2017. Forms of food transition: sociocultural factors limiting the diets’ animalisation in France and India. Sociologia Ruralis 57, 1, 41-63.
Garnett, T. et al. (2015) Policies and actions to shift eating patterns: What works? A review of the evidence of the effectiveness of interventions aimed at shifting diets in more sustainable and healthy directions. Food Climate Research Network and Chatham House. [Available as a download]
Goodland, R. (1997). Environmental sustainability in agriculture: diet matters. Ecological Economics 23, 189-200.
Leitzmann, C. (2003) Nutrition ecology: the contribution of vegetarian diets. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 78 (3) pp. 657S-659.
*Lombardini, C., Lankoski, L., (2013). Forced choice restriction in promoting sustainable food consumption: intended and unintended effects of the mandatory vegetarian day in Helsinki schools. Journal of Consumer Policy 36, pp. 159-178.
MacMilan, T. and Durant, R. (2010) Livestock consumption and climate change: a framework for dialogue. Food Ethics Council report: available to download from the FEC website.
Matheny, G. (2003) Least harm: a defence of vegetarianism from Steven Davis’s omnivorous proposal. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics 16 (5) pp. 505-511.
Matheny, G., and Chan, K. M. A. (2005). Human diets and animal welfare: the illogic of the larder. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics 18, 579–594.
Maurer, D. (2002) Vegetarianism: Movement or Moment? Philadelphia: Temple University Press.
McMichael, A. et al. (2007) Food, livestock production, energy, climate change, and health. The Lancet, 370, 1253-63.
*McMichael, A. and Bambrick, H. (2005) Invited editorial: meat consumption trends and health. Public Health Nutrition, 8 (4), 341-43.
Meat Free Mondays campaign: http://www.meatfreemondays.co.uk
Meatless Mondays campaign: http://www.meatlessmonday.com
Monbiot, G.(2005) On eating meat. The Guardian. 18.10.05, p.27
George Monbiot on becoming vegan in 2016:
Morris, C. and Kirwan, J. (2006) Vegetarians: uninvited, uncomfortable or special guests at the table of the alternative food economy? Sociologia Ruralis, 46 (1), pp.192-213.
Morris, C. and Kirwan, J. (2007) Is meat the new militancy? locating vegetarianism within the alternative food economy. Chapter 8 in Kneafsey, M., Holloway, L. and Maye, D. (eds.) Constructing ‘Alternative’ Food Geographies: Representation and Practice. Oxford: Elsevier. pp.135-147.
Pimentel, D. and M. Pimentel, M. (2003) Sustainability of meat-based and plant-based diets and the environment. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition 78 (3) pp. 660-663.
Singer, P. and Mason, J. 2006. The way we eat: why our food choices matter. Rodale: US.
Smart, A. (2004) Adrift in the mainstream: challenges facing the UK vegetarian movement. British Food Journal 106 (2) pp. 79-92.
*Sustainable Development Commission (2009) Setting the table: advice to government on priority elements of sustainable diets. SDC: London. [Available to download from the SDC website]
Tansey G. and D’Silva, J. (1999) The meat business: devouring a hungry planet. Earthscan, London.
*Fitzgerald, A. and Taylor, N. (2015) The cultural hegemony of meat and the animal industrial complex. Chapter 8 in Taylor, N. And Twine, R. (Eds) The rise of critical animal studies: from margin to centre. Routledge: NewYork and London. [Available as an Ebook]
Walker, P et al. (2005) Public health implications of meat production and consumption. Public Health Nutrition, 8 (4), 348-356.
And to watch on Box of Broadcasts:
Should I eat meat? The big health dilemma. The first of two BBC2 Horizon programmes presented by Dr Michael Mosley, first broadcast Monday 18th August, 2014.
Should I eat meat? How to feed the planet. The second of the two BBC2 Horizon programmes presented by Dr Michael Mosley, first broadcast Thursday 21st August, 2014.
18. Made by, Made of: Bio-commodification, hidden production and exploitation in fashion’s supply chains (LC) (w/c 19th March)
This lecture explores the questions ‘who are our clothes made by (and under what conditions?)’ and what are our clothes made from (and what are the economic, social and environmental impacts of this). The website and activities of Fashion Revolution will be an important resource for this lecture.
Bain, M. (2015) Luxury Goods Worldwide Study, December 2015 Altagamma
Bigolin, R. (2011) Faux pas? Faking materials and languages of luxury in Ebel, S. and Assouley, O. Proceedings of the 13th Annual Conference for the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institute Paris, April 11-15
Calefato, P. (2014) Luxury London, Bloomsbury
Cox, C. (2013) Luxury Fashion: A Global History of Heritage Brands. Bloomsbury: London.
*Crewe, L. (2017) Fast fashion, global spaces and biocommodification. Chapter 3 in Geographies of Fashion
Fashion Revolution (2017) Money, Fashion, Power
*http://fashionrevolution.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/FR_FashionTransparencyIndex.pdf
Hoskins, T. (2014) Stitched up: The anti-capitalist book of fashion London
Journeyman (2014) Inside Malaysia’s gruesome snake skin trade November 17, 2014 Journeyman Broadcasts
*Karpik, L. (2010) Valuing The Unique: The Economics of Singularities
Kwak, M. And Yoffie, D (2001) Gucci Group Harvard Business School 9-701-037
McNeill, D. (2009) The Global Architect: firms, fame and urban form London: Routledge
*Minney, S. (2017) Slave to fashion
Sandel, M. (2012) What Money Can’t Buy: The Moral Limits of Markets London, Penguin Books
There are a number of recent press articles on child labour and slavery in fashion. Here are a selection:
*Moulds, J. Child labour in the fashion supply chain. The Guardian. Found at:
https://labs.theguardian.com/unicef-child-labour/
http://www.supplychaindigital.com/scm/new-research-reveals-risks-slavery-fashion-supply-chains
EASTER BREAK - Term ends w/b 19th March
19. The new politics of milk (CM) (w/c 23rd April)
20. Revision class (LC/CM) (w/c 30th April)
Guidance will be given on the examination.
